We drove on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and I can only describe it as stunning.
We entered at its very northernmost origin, in Afton,
Virginia, and immediately began to rise, up from the Shenandoah valley, on
twisting roads that grew richer and richer in color as we gained in elevation.
We stopped in a grove of elms, having passed up the first few scenic pullouts
because the crowds were too heavy. We found ourselves alone in a yellow forest
lined with black trucks, a brown carpet of freshly fallen leaves on the ground,
and lichen thick on the rocks.
Leo was in a sour mood (he had just woken from a nap that he
had needed to be a bit longer) but when I took a handful of leaves and tossed
them into the air, his frown turned into a mischievous smirk. The whole family
then scuttled about, grabbing leaves and tossing them into the air. And then
the moment was over, and it was time to get back in the RV and drive. We didn’t
make it far before I pulled over at a proper scenic pull off, with a view of
the Shenandoah valley below and blue-green mountains away with yellows, reds
and pops of orange. It was breathtaking, and a fellow leaf peeper and myself
gushed about how gorgeous it was, and compared notes.
Feeling heady with the view and rich with new knowledge, we
climbed back in the RV and continued driving.
Maneuvering the Parkway is quite pleasant, even when hauling
an RV. The speed limit is a modest 45, and though the road twists and turns,
there are no horrible switchbacks (Those only came when we got off of
parkway). Plus It’s literally a scenic drive. No one in their right mind would
drive on it if they’re in a hurry. Go slow! Who care? Everyone I saw was
pulling over every other stop anyway.
It would have certainly been more fun to drive in a car because
more of the pull outs would be available, and we could have delved a bit
deeper, but still, a perfect day for driving in RV in autumn.
The mountains were golden yellow, with dots of orange, red
and green. I have little experience with fall. In Central Texas, trees lose
their leaves, but it’s not such a showy affair. There’s no hillsides that
transform into a watercolor painting. In Texas, there’s no kaleidoscope of
moving color as the clouds pass overhead, and the sunshine changes reds to
oranges and oranges to yellow.
My brain malfunctioning, I pulled over.
We even found ourselves on the Appalachian trail, literally.
Most of the pullouts were too small (or too crowded) to
accommodate an RV, so we had to drive past most of them. That was a bummer, but
so it was. There are still a fair amount of places an RV can pull over, if only
to stretch your legs and take in the view, it’s still worth stopping often. We
stopped at one of these, though there was not quite enough room for us to pull
all the way forward. We were out of the road, which was better than we could do
on many of the pullovers, but not in a parking spot. But that was fine. We were
near our car, everyone was out sightseeing, if there was a problem, we’d move.
Besides, there was a lot going on, and moving the RV isn’t
always easy. For example, there was a gaggle of four older hikers carrying
massive backpacks and armed with walking sticks. They were walking off a small
trail that came from down the mountainside and exited the forest… directly into
the space between my truck and trailer. I gawked, looking at the four hikers.
Thru hikers, they were telling to the people whose truck was blocking mine from
parking in a spot.
“I…. I think I parked my truck on the Appalachian trail,” I
said to Raquel, horrified.
Raquel said something to the effect of “It’s fine. They’re
not going to get confused over it.”
I felt horrible. “Let’s check it out!” Leo declared, but I
had to move the truck.
I went back while my family went ahead. The family ahead of
me was leaving. I could move the truck! Only one of the hikers was still
ambling around.
I had to pass him to get into my truck. There was no
avoiding it. I could go around the back of the RV and—
No. That way lied only madness.
I walked past the hiker, bowing and mumbling, “I… I think I parked on the Appalachian trail. I…
I’m sorry.”
To which he replied. “It’s not like I was going to get lost.
I wanted to come over here to admire the view anyway.”
And then he waived and vanished across the street and down
the path marked with a white hatch mark.
We tried to follow him a few minutes later, on the advice of
the family who had made me park on the trail, who had said that it was super
easy and nice.
We discovered a treacherous descent traversing a boulder
strewn path that was nigh impossible for young Xander to descend and had to
turn back immediately. Of the hiker, there was nothing to be seen. He had
vanished as quickly as he had arrived, to descend into the stunning valleys of
the Blue Ridge Mountains, to hike over roots and rocks, under branch and vine,
in hot or cold, so he could crest the next ridge and see the next spectacular
view.
We got back in our truck and towed our RV to the next vista.
We were told to get back on the AT trail at one exit, that
warned us of treacherous terrain, and am I glad that it did. The next stretch
of the mountains turned out to be the most spectacular yet.
The stretch just north of Roanoke is the place to go.
This was the first part of the trail (headed south from the
origin) where I could see mountains on both sides of the ridge. That is, the
road was literally built at the very top of the mountain ridge in places. We’d
drive along, a wall of spectacular red maple on one side of us, rolling hills
of pines far below on the right, and then it would drop away and there’d be an
entire valley of maple on the left. Then the right side would rise up, and be
replaced with another color of flame, and then it would open up all over again.
It was spectacular, well worth a drive. Or better yet make
someone else drive you!
It was only bad when we went to Buena Vista, and had to take
the highway back down into civilization, but the truck handled it well enough,
even with the RV in tow. An eight percent grade is a lot when towing,
but the engine downshifting automatically really is awesome. We made it down
without melting our brakes, but the red light at the bottom of the hill smelled
like someone had failed to do so.
We drove to the center of town and were able to find a place
to park just past the outfield of a baseball diamond, with the roar of Friday Night
Lights not far away, and a clear night sky, above. There’s an old plantation
house on the other side of a line of RVs, and the homecoming dance will be
there tomorrow. It feels so much like the rural south it almost hurts.
Pictures to come! Our internet connection is really bad right now, but I wanted to get this out before Thanksgiving!
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